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The lovely Maureen Vicenti of Vicenti Ristorante gave me a jar of this chevre, promising I would die after eating it. And after a couple hundred meals at her fabulous restaurant, which is a Thomas family favorite, I knew she would never lead my taste buds astray. Well, Maureen: brava. I died, but quickly resuscitated myself for another bite of this absolutely delicious cheese.
It’s a cabecou style chevre by Laura Chenel, founder and owner of Laura Chenel's Chèvre, Inc. which catalyzed the American artisan cheese movement in 1979. Her cheese quickly became a signature ingredient in the newly-emerging Californian cuisine, and reached national recognition when Alice Waters of Chez Panisse restaurant placed a standing order for Laura’s chevre.
The cheese Maureen recommended, cabecou, is a very small French cheese, gaining its name from the language of 'Oc', the ancient language of South West of France, and translates to “small goat.” This delicious farm cheese gets its flavor from the richness of the milk, and when eaten fresh has a pliant and creamy texture. With time a thin shell of mold blossoms, creating a rich, nutty flavor. Laura Chenel’s version is kept in a jar of herbed olive oil, with bay leaf, thyme, rosemary, and other herbs. The texture is creamy, but clings to the palette with a fresh milky flavor and notes of citrus.
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I enjoy the cheese best when spread on a piece of good baguette, with the herbed oil poured over, and a few cracks of fresh pepper to finish it off. I ended up adding balsamic to the empty plate and scooping up the crumbs of cheese with left over pieces of bread. Finger and plate licking was involved. Enjoy!
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